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Metal Backings for Openwork Pieces

tools and materials for the project: roll of thin brass sheet, cut out backings, cut off scrap sheet, scissors, awl, green scrubby pad, marker, ruler, clips

Some medieval openwork objects had backings against which the cast pewter stood out. These pieces can be identified by the little tabs that stick out from the edges, which were bent in to keep the backing in place. In many cases the backing has disappeared; these may have had backings made of parchment or paper – or cloth backed with parchment or paper. Some extant pieces have metal backings. Most of those are pewter sheet, but there are a handful of later examples with copper alloy sheet. We use paper and brass (or occasionally copper) sheet for some of our excellent items. The process is simple and creates really beautiful results.

We buy our metal sheet in rolls as half-hard brass shim stock. Of course, we do not need the accuracy of shim stock, but it is a convenient way to purchase and store what we need. Most of our backings are .008 inch (.2mm) thick. As the roll of metal sits in our shop it gradually gets dull. We clean the oxide off and brighten up the sheet before we make the backings. Because the areas that are exposed are small – and surrounded by bright pewter – we finish with an unobtrusive circular pattern of fine scratches from the abrasive pad, rather than trying for a polish.

We cut the sheet off in strips wide enough to cut the backings from. At this thickness, we can use ordinary scissors to cut the sheet.

We use a cardboard template to trace the shape needed for each backing. The strip is just a little taller than the final piece, so each backing is trimmed on all sides.

template on a strip of stock, outlines traced, with an awl

This is just as well, as the cast pendant – and therefore the backing – is not symmetrical. The edges of the backings do not line up perfectly with each other, and trimming them creates many tiny, spiky curls of metal that shoot across the table as they are freed from the sheet. We usually find the last ones a couple of days later, by setting an arm or a hand down on them. Ouch!

The other result of cutting with the scissors is that the corners of the backings get turned up. We take a minute to flatten them (with the handle of the awl) and then nip them off with the scissors to keep them from catching on clothing when they are worn.

We set the pendants face down and add a backing. Remember that part about how neither the castings nor the backings are symmetrical? Because we only brightened one side of the sheet, and then traced the template on that side, if we put the backings on with the bright side toward the castings, they will always fit.

The clips fold over easily and hold the backing in place.

To keep the backings bright while the pendants await their new owners, we keep them them in small plastic bags inside our storage bins. The St. Barbara rondel badges near the front have the backings installed already, so the entire piece must be enclosed. The St. Sebastians at the back are still separate, so only the backings need to be put in a bag.

St. Sebastian pendants, ready to go.

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Casting a tinned hook into a pewter cloak clasp

We have cast a hook into our new pewter cloak clasp. Several of our goods have copper alloy or ferrous wire/rod cast into the pewter pieces.

Demicient parts, buckle with reinforced tongue, cloak clasp, cloak hook, large purse frame

The new cloak clasp is copied after an original clasp from Rotterdam, the iron hook of which has partially rusted away. To replicate this object, we cut 16 ga. mild steel rod to length.

Back view of 16th century cloak hook

We sharpen both ends of the pins. To tin them, we brush an acidic commercial liquid soldering flux over the parts of the rods that will be exposed, then dip each end in a pot of molten tin.

We wipe the excess tin off. When all the pins are prepared, we put each one into the mold for the cloak hook. Closing the mold keeps the pin the the correct place and we fill the mold with molten pewter.

The pewter encloses the pin and holds it firmly. We cut off the sprues.

We use a wire looping (concave and round nose) pliers to bend the hooks into place.

Read more about this strong, decorative cloak hook. on the product page.

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Turning the Rotterdam Box

Our friend Chuck (Master Gryphon), a talented wood worker, has been working on making replicas of the turned wooden box in which the three Rotterdam brooches were found. He has shared a step by step description of his process.


The Rotterdam trio, as we call them, are three brooches dated to 1350-1400. They were excavated from the construction site of the Markthal in 2009-1010 and when they were found, they were all in a single wooden box, barely large enough to hold them. Images of the brooches and the remains of the box were published in Heilig en Profaan 3 (2012).

The kind folks at Archeologie Rotterdam (BOOR) provided better photos of the box (as well as images of the three brooches). They say that the wooden box is 2.7 cm high and approximately 3.0 cm in diameter.

Chuck and Mac studied the photos, discussed where the measurements were taken, and talked about what the box might have looked like when it was complete. Mac made a sketch showing the results of their analysis.

After a series of experiments and test pieces, Chuck produced not only our box (and some additional boxes for friends), but also photos showing his procedure. He has been kind enough to share these:

Select a square piece of close grained hardwood at least 1.5” square x 6” long. Mount between centers on the lathe.

Turn round to just less than 1.5” diameter.

Use a 7/8” Forstner bit and drill in 21mm. Can also use bowl gouge or scraper instead of drill.

Check the depth for 21mm.

Use a round nose scraper (or bowl gouge) to shape the inside to the proper dimensions and taper (26mm at top and 22mm at bottom).

Place live center in opening.

Use spindle gouge to turn the outside to the proper dimensions, taper, and add lip for lid.

Use parting tool to cut to length leaving it still attached. Sand the inside and outside and finish parting from lathe.

Mark the remaining piece on the lathe for the top dimensions (7mm and 11mm) and turn the inside to match the lip on the bottom.

Insert the bottom into the top recess and check for tight fit.

Turn the top diameter to 34mm diameter and 11mm long.

Sand and part the top from the lathe.

Turn a recess into the remaining piece on the lathe to accept the bottom and act as a jam chuck. Check that the bottom is centered.

Mount the top onto the bottom.

Adjust the tail stock to lightly support the top mounted to the base.

Finish turning the outside of the top. Remove the small stud and sand.

The finished box.

See our replicas of the brooches that were found in the original box.

Interested in seeing more boxes, both extant examples and in art? Mac has a Pinterest page on them.

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On making things meant to be identical quite similar

An array of heart spangles on a red background

We make molds for a lot of medieval gewgaws – roughly 525 items. Many of the smaller goods – spangles, buttons, chaplet decorations, belt mounts, clothing fasteners – come out of multi-cavity molds that cast three or more copies of the item.

It is important that the resulting castings are indistinguishable from one another except on very close inspection. We also want the mold to cast easily and completely (or nearly completely) every time. For this to happen, the mold cavities must be very similar, and they have to be laid out so that the metal fills each of them the same way. We try to choose the best mold design from a number of authentic layouts.

Multiple cavity molds: button, circlet decoration, spangle with stone, bee spangle, and triangular spangle

The two molds on the left are three part molds – the one to accommodate the button loop and the other so the stones can lie flat in the spangle mold while the metal pours in. The openwork star chaplet decoration mold and the bee spangle mold have cavities that branch off a central sprue. That middle sprue narrows as it descends and the lower feeds are narrower/thinner than the upper ones to balance the greater pressure to the lower parts of the mold. The mold for the triangular spangles equalizes the pressure in a different way, by arranging the cavities horizontally and splitting the main sprue to even out the flow and amount of metal to the various cavities.

Notebook with sketches for heart spangle and mold with brass template.

This notebook page shows a layout we considered for the heart spangles, as well as some late sketches of the form the heart would take. (Preliminary sketches were on another page.) When we make round things we use a compass to lay out the pieces. But for items like the bees or the triangles – and the hearts – we employ templates to trace the shapes of the cavities. We have used cardboard and thin template plastic before; for the heart spangle Mac made a brass template to my final design. This let me trace the exact shape with a sharp needle on the stone – and also to trace the heart in pencil in my notebook to experiment with the beading, the loop, and so on.

Castings of heart spangle mold with complete hearts cut off and incomplete castings left to compare and correct.

Hours of careful work into the project, I was getting many of the cavities to fill, most of the way, most of the time. I put my initials and the date on the back of each spangle, so that any examples that cast fully could be cut off, cleaned up, and sold. At this stage we keep every casting for examination. Clipping off the good examples, we lay out what is left to show where the repeating problems are. In the shot above we see that of the six cavities there is still trouble with the upper two hearts on the right. The loops are not casting, and upper heart is not filling to the edge. I corrected only the places that were not working, leaving the rest of the mold untouched. The lighter areas of the mold show where I extended and deepened the back under the beading where it was not casting, deepened the loops, and reinforced the venting both front and back.

Complete cast of six spangles on sprue for heart spangle

By the time I filled the stock box, the mold still was not working perfectly every time, so the next time I cast I will continue tweaking the cavities, the sprues, and the venting. I’m almost there.

Mold for heart spangle with brass template and castings

The hearts themselves are also not perfectly identical – if you took a handful of them you could play “Spot the Difference” and sort them by mold cavity. But because I took care in design and layout, and worked as meticulously as I could, they are similar enough.

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Remaking an unsatisfactory mold

We used to offer a low-profile eyelet with three sewing holes and a pearled surface. It was copied after an original lacing eyelet in our collection. The eyelet was attractive and sturdy but the mold had problems.

There are several ways to arrange the cavities in a gang mold – and all have their uses. Marianne, who made the first mold in 2006, used a vertical sprue with individual channels branching out for each eyelet. The channels travel towards the outside of the mold, then drop vertically with the eyelet cavities all descending at the same angle.

If a gang mold is properly made all the cavities fill perfectly every time. If it is not, some cavities do not fill or fill incompletely. Meanwhile, other cavities flash (have “fins” of unwanted metal that sneaks between the mold parts) and have to be cleaned up after casting. The problem with arranging the cavities vertically in a gravity-fed mold is that the lower cavities cast completely at a lower temperature (of mold and/or metal) than the upper ones – or more consistently – because the pressure is greater at the bottom. Usually you can adjust the spruing and gates so that most of the castings are satisfactory most of the time.

Old filigree eyelets mold

This mold shows one way to try solve that problem – the upper branching channels are thicker than the lower ones, feeding more, hotter, metal to the higher cavities. Making the mold was a prolonged struggle, with repeated unsuccessful efforts to balance the pressure to each casting. It is also a tightly fitted mold and needed extensive venting. We were in the midst of a period of exploration of venting technologies, and Marianne vented it – too aggressively – with a grid of closely spaced vents across the entire back mold valve. The result was that, even after all the fuss, castings usually had fewer than four complete eyelets and many of the complete eyelets were flashy.

Flashy casting from the old filigree eyelet mold

We continued to use the mold for a number of years, fiddling with metal temperature as we poured to try to control the flash; cleaning the flash off rapidly while cutting the eyelets from the sprue; throwing a lot of partial casts back into the pot, and cursing. We eventually introduced our pointy eyelets and let the filigree eyelets drop out of production.

Mold for the pointy eyelets


The pointy eyelet mold is laid out on a different plan, with one sprue descending to a horizontal runner – and it worked well from the beginning. This arrangement equalizes the pressure to each cavity better, although you have to tweak the thickness of the runner to optimize it. This sort of mold is also sensitive to whether it is level when the metal is introduced, as a tilted mold may give you flashy castings at the lower end of the runner and incomplete ones at the higher end.

New filigree eyelets mold

This week Mac remade the filigree eyelet mold on the same pattern as the pointy one. The new mold is also vented very thoroughly – those are vents straight through the stone (filled with copper wire) between each of the cavities – but more expertly. We know more than we did 16 years ago, thank goodness.

Clean casting from the new filigree eyelet mold

With the horizontal runner this mold consistently casts four perfect eyelets every time. We are offering this nice little lacing eyelet again.

Filigree lacing eyelets with original examplar