Posted on Leave a comment

Slush casting the large rumbler bell

Large rumbler bell mold and a casting

We have been wanting to make a larger, round, slush-cast bell. (Are you new to slush-casting? See the very end of this post for a brief explanation – then come back to the top!) Mac worked on the project off and on for several years. There are similar bells from London, Valenciennes, and the Netherlands. There are also (almost) two 13th-century molds (with both mold halves present) for casting them. Why almost? One of the molds has been lost, but sometime before that happened, the owner cast it, so a record of the cavity remains.

The mold on the left was found in Rostock, Germany (published in Berger, 2020, vol. 1, p.136). The lead casting in the middle was made of a mold found in the area of the medieval market and artisan quarters in Rocamadour (Rocacher, J. 1980. Les mouliers de Rocamadour. Bulletin de la Societé des Études de Lot, October–December. 284–92.) On the right, our mold.

We only knew the Rocamadour casting at first and it misled us into thinking that the mold had a core – a carefully fitted piece of wood, for example, that held the bottom of the bell open. We imagined that the tin was poured into the loop and thence the bell while the core was in place, then the core withdrawn to drain the still-molten center of the casting. This was wrong – it was impossible to get enough metal through the loop and, although we do have molds that fill at one end and drain from the other (the horn whistle, the toy ewer, and the hollow domed button), it didn’t work here.

The mold from Rostock makes it clear that the square opening is the gate for both filling and emptying the mold. The shape leaves a opening of even width once the gate is cut away, and the bell can then be cleaned up and finished. Mac’s final mold (the earlier ones were altered beyond recognition in experimentation) works the same way. It casts the “pea” at the same time.

To pour the bell, we fill the mold to the top with pure tin. After a short length of time (Mac counts seconds, depending on the temperatures of the metal and the mold, and also sloshes the metal back and forth to see whether the shell is forming) he pours back the still molten metal from the center of the bell.

The bell comes out with a square, hollow sprue. The sprue in the middle photo is unusually baroque. We clip the “peas” off.

We melt the excess sprue back into the metal in the casting ladle. We think a hot iron is probably a more authentic means of removal, but that is not convenient in our studio.

We trim along both sides of the bell to remove the sprue.

After a quick trip across the grinder (not illustrated), we drop a pea in each bell and squeeze it closed. The completed weight of the bells ranges between ~.29 and .37 ounces/8.25 and 10.5 grams (from a quick weighing of about a dozen sample bells).

Slush casting is used to make hollow objects – ampullae, whistles, toy cooking pots, three-dimensional figures. We have about two dozen items made this way. The molds have large openings and you pour the metal in, wait for it to become solid around the edges, then pour out the metal that is still liquid, leaving a shell. Often there is one gate, which you pour both in and out of. Sometimes there is a gate to fill the mold, and a different gate to empty it. We made a video of Mac pouring the toy cooking pot with lid that shows the process – check it out on Youtube!

Slush casting only works when the metal has a distinct melting point – it is liquid or it is solid. Pure lead and pure tin were the metals used in the Middle Ages to make this sort of object. We, of course, stick with tin. Alloys do not slush-cast well. The various melting points of the different metals in an alloy mean that over large temperature ranges the alloy is not either liquid or solid, but is sort of like grainy, wet sand – and it will not empty the mold.

Posted on Leave a comment

Attaching a Nick Rolin Chape to Leather

Making a collar with our Nicholas Rolin fittings? Here’s some tips on attaching the ends to the leather.

1 1/4″/30mm leather
Too thick to fit in smoothly?
Thin with skiver, splitter, abrasives. etc.
Trim end of leather to shape.
Bevel back edge.
Check fit – all edges should fit close to inside curve.
Drill through marked circles in chape while leather is inserted.
Drill hole in middle of field.
Smaller-headed rivets in holes in points.
Larger-headed rivet in center.
Cut all rivets off very close to back of chape.
Hammer with many light blows. Support on anvil with thin cardboard padding.
Rivets tight and smooth on back.
Chape attached.
Posted on Leave a comment

Tale of Two Spoon Molds

The new spoon and the old

We made our first spoon mold 25 years ago – and have made several improved versions since. There is a persistent problem, though, and Mac has been engaged in the next experiment to solve it. The bowl of our spoons is usually slightly porous (more or less depending on the casting). Uncorrected, this lets liquid contents seep slowly through the metal. We have used two separate “repairs”: sometimes we hammer the bowl, which compacts the metal and closes up the tiny holes. The other solution is to fill the porosity with bismuth solder. Both methods work, but they take time and lead to additional clean up before the spoon is acceptable.

The cause of this problem is using a modern (tin/antimony/copper) alloy in a stone mold. We warm our molds before we cast, but they continue to warm while we repeatedly fill them with hot pewter. Spoon molds are large, and the stone does not transmit heat readily. The result is that the temperature of the mold stabilizes, but with a marked difference in temperature between the hot end where we pour the metal in – the bowl end – and the much cooler long stretch down the handle and to the knop. This means that the bowl cools much more slowly than the handle, and during that cooling porosity develops as the metal continues moving minutely.

One good and one porous cast in our standard alloy with porous area marked
One good and one porous cast in our standard alloy with porous area marked

A possible solution is to change our alloy – but we do not like our choices. There are two authentic types of alloy found in medieval spoons. One is tin/lead – and you know that is not food-safe. The other is tin/copper; we have tried that, but it is softer and easier to deform than our normal alloy, and we prefer not to use it. Another lead-free modern alloy is available (tin, bismuth, silver, and copper; distributed as “AquaClean”). It has a whitish surface when cast which we dislike, creaks slightly under even gentle pressure (like between your lips), and tarnishes very readily.

The other possibility is to change molds. By the eighteenth century metal molds were normally used to cast pewter spoons, dishes, and knickknacks of every sort. Antimonious alloys were also in common use. We thought it worthwhile to see whether a brass mold would permit us to cast spoons in our standard alloy successfully.

Spoon molds from Salmon's
Spoon molds from Salmon’s Art du potier d’étain

There are extant Roman era bronze molds for copper alloy objects (thanks to Mark Shier for this information). The British Portable Antiquities Scheme also report numerous brass molds for small items dated from the late medieval to early post-medieval date. (A search for medieval period molds can be reproduced at https://finds.org.uk/database/search/results/objecttype/MOULD/broadperiod/MEDIEVAL/material/7.) In addition, an inventory of a London pewterer’s shop from 1427 included three molds specified as brass, for making a charger and two platters respectively. (Quoted in John Blair’s English Medieval Industries, p.71. Thanks to James Supp for the citation.)

Medieval brass seal mold reported in the Portable Antiquities Scheme
Medieval brass seal mold reported in the Portable Antiquities Scheme

We depend for many technical details on an 18th-century work, the Art du potier d’étain of Pierre Augustin Salmon, Paris, 1788. This is a remarkable work with extensive information about the technology of somewhat later pewterer’s work. We deeply regret that Salmon never did write the chapter on mold-making, which he referred to repeatedly, but published the book without.

Casting spoons in metal molds, as per Salmon's book
Casting spoons in metal molds, as per Salmon’s book. Plate XXVIII

Bolstered by all this information, Mac began the prolonged experiment of casting spoons with a brass mold. If you would like to read his extensive and repeated reports to fellow enthusiasts, with their helpful comments and advice, he has blogged this and related projects on the Armour Archive. The executive summary follows:

He created a plaster pattern for half the new mold by taking a cast off our most recent stone mold with the spoon in situ. He created locating keys for aligning the mold parts, and covered everything with grease.

Left: Pattern for half the mold with spoon embedded, built up on stone mold .
Right: First pattern, with locating pins, greased up

He built up plaster for the matching pattern to create the second half of the mold, and when the plaster was dry (or nearly so) finished the two patterns to the form the mold was to have.

Left: Making the second pattern by piling up plaster on the first half
Right: Both patterns together, cleaned up

He packed up the two patterns and shipped them to Patrick Thaden, who cast them in brass.

Left: Patterns in the casting flask
Center: Patrick pouring the brass
Right: Cast mold pieces, with sprue

We live and learn. Because the plaster did not make an ideal pattern for sand casting, clean up took a long time. Mac worked first on matching the two halves.

Left: Rough castings
Center: Facing one mold piece as the first step in matching the halves
Right: Matching the mold pieces

Once they fit together, he cleaned up the surfaces of the mold and made repeated adjustments to the volume at various places. He measured the thickness of the cast spoon, and recorded the results on multiple casts to guide the removal of material from the mold.

Left: Measuring the thickness of a casting
Right: Recorded measurements of thickness. Circled areas are too thin and indicate where the mold must be deepened

While making early test casts, he used heavy applications of soot as a resist to keep the molten pewter from soldering itself to the metal mold. After one frightening, although ultimately inconsequential, failure of the resist he started patinating the surface by fuming the mold with vinegar after every work session in which fresh metal was exposed, as an additional protection. (During this time he also made a stool for an armored man to sit on to rest, after late medieval images, but that is a different story.)

Left: Pewter soldered to brass mold
Right: Vinegar-fumed patinated mold

Although we cast standing at our bench, Mac went ahead and made slip-on wooden handles like those the (seated) caster is using in Salmon’s illustration. They are of most use to him in handling the mold with his right hand, since we routinely use a heavier glove on the left for holding the molds, and a lighter one on the right to pick up and pour the ladle of molten pewter and do other tasks requiring more dexterity.

Left: Mold with wooden handles
Right: The mold at our pouring bench

He had to order in ocher, but as soon as he received it, Mac moved on to a resist compound containing the ocher, egg white, and vinegar, as per Salmon’s instructions. After a little experimentation, he has learned to apply it smoothly, and it is proving to be both effective and persistent during casting. The brass mold casts complete spoons within three pours – and keeps producing them without overheating the way the stone mold does – and without porosity.

Left: Mold halves painted with ocher
Right: Successive good casts from the brass mold

We are pleased with the results of casting in this brass mold: spoons which are strong and nonporous, with surfaces that are easier to clean than those from the stone molds. Mac has begun experiments with new cleaning and polishing techniques, and we will share those results when they come to fruition.

Both molds and their spoons

Posted on Leave a comment

Casting the Five Wounds Paternoster / Rosary Beads

We thought you might enjoy seeing how we cast the beads in the Five Wounds of Christ set. Each of the five molds is made of two pieces of stone. A wire core keeps the hole in the middle of the bead open.

To cast the bead, we hold the mold closed in one hand and insert the core wire. You can see the end of the wire protruding in the photo where the pewter fills the sprue.

We pull the wire out while holding the mold tightly closed. This leaves the bead in the cavity. Keeping the mold closed gives us leverage to strip out the core – it is much easier than fighting individual beads off the wire.

In three of the molds – for the heart and the two hands – the wire lays between the two mold halves. In the molds for the feet, the wire goes through the stone instead.

In these molds the core wire is inserted and withdrawn perpendicularly through the two pieces of stone.

You can see a video of Mac casting beads on our Facebook page.

Our other rosary / paternoster beads are made in the same way.

Posted on Leave a comment

Attaching a Purse Hanger to a Belt

A brief tutorial on attaching a purse hanger to a belt. We bend the straps with a round-nose pliers, but you can do anything that leaves you with the strap bent evenly around the arm of the purse hanger, and with the two ends of the hanger aligned.

Put it on the belt wherever you want it. Press it down to tighten so it will stay in the right place while you are drilling.

Charlie likes to mark the center of the “saucer” where the hole (and the rivet) will be with a sharp center punch mark to keep it tighter and to help align the drill. Billy finds this technique effete. The rivets we supply fit the hole made by a a 3/32″ (2.4 mm) drill bit.

Drill through the resulting sandwich of strap front/leather/strap back (3 layers). In this way, all the holes are lined up perfectly.

Put the first rivet in immediately to keep the strap from shifting on the leather, but do not rivet it.

Make sure the strap is still straight and drill the second hole. Proceed one hole at a time, dropping in rivets as you go.

When all the holes are drilled and the rivets inserted, you are ready to rivet the purse hanger to the belt. We use a diagonal cutter and a light cross pein hammer.

Clip each rivet off very close on the back. The amount left proud of the surface should be less than the diameter of the rivet stem.

Use the light cross pein to set the rivets. You are trying to spread the rivet stem out, like a mushroom, to fill and cover the hole. Expect it to take 15 to 20 tiny taps in one direction, then the same number at a right angle to the first set. For additional information, please refer to our general instructions for putting belts together.

Hooray!